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Far from a mainstay

A review of Princi in Soho

 

Alan Yau OBE is a restaurateur who opts to have bouncers outside his restaurants. On Tuesday evening in the company of two foodie friends, I had the misfortune as to learn why.

 

Best known for founding the bland Wagamama chain in 1992 and also for owning such places as Hakkasan and Yauatcha, one reviewer named Juliet Shields described Yau’s Soho restaurant, Princi, as a place “you can easily miss”. In my case, I truly wish my friend had never suggested it as here indeed we were fed quite possibly the worst pizza I’ve ever tasted and here also, we were subjected to the worst service known to man.

 

Princi, 135 Wardour Street, London, W1F 0UT
The interior of Princi is cold and uninviting

Princi’s logo is captioned “Spirito Di Milano” but there’s not much of that here. Instead, on arrival, one encounters a burly bouncer and the least friendly staff you could possibly imagine. The decoration is modern and clinical and whilst some rave about the on-site bakery, the pizzas – priced between £7.50 and £12.50 – we attempted to eat were cold and plastic like in texture.

 

Having reported our distaste to their management without any success, my French friend – himself a former restaurant owner – confronted the chef to explain what was wrong with what they attempted to describe as food. His reaction was simple: A bouncer was called over and we were told to leave. This was not the conduct one would expect in a restaurant. It was more like an eviction from the Big Brother house.

 

The blogger Hollow Legs stated: “I’ve never liked Princi much”. She is right in that regard but I will go further: This is the very worst restaurant I’ve ever been to in London, if not the world. Do not make our mistake. Do not try it.

 

Princi, 135 Wardour Street, Soho, London, W1F 0UT. Telephone: +44 (0) 20 7478 8888.

 

 

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